Feb 88 mins read

The chefs who were "killed" by Michelin Star: It is a curse

At the end of November, in the maple leaf season in Kyoto, Uncle Bo took the air to catch the autumn tail.

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(Photographed in Dongfu Temple, Kyoto)

Of course, I have not eaten Michelin Huaishi once ...

After returning, I saw that I had won the "God of Sushi" on the "God of Sushi" on the famous shop of Michelin Samsung for 12 consecutive years.

Will the little spinach make an appointment for half a year in order to eat a meal?

The name "Michelin" must be familiar with food.

Since 1931, the Michelin brothers who sell tires have decided to engage in cross -border marketing in order to increase tire sales, so there is this gourmet red book- "Michelin Guide".

With this unique cross -border marketing, Michelin tires sold red fire. The 2019 global tire company TOP34 list, Michelin ranks second.

The Michelin Guide has become 240,000 regions across the three continents, evaluating more than 40,000 restaurants, and the world's prevalence of popularity.

With the evaluation of more and more people, people have discovered that Michelin has spoiled all over the world.


Unreliable Michelin

It was Americans who were unhappy at first.

In 2008, Michelin came to Los Angeles.

Los Angeles's cuisine is very diverse, including Mexican cuisine, African cuisine, Japanese food, Korean food, Philippine cuisine, Michelin also published the Michelin Los Angeles Guide for two consecutive years ...

Everything looks very beautiful.

In fact, throughout Los Angeles, Michelin only raised four two -star restaurants, not even a Samsung.

As a result, the Michelin judges opened a 8 -year -old interoperability with Los Angeles gourmet.

These proud judges are probably refused to come out a few more steps from the Ferli Villa Hotel.

Later, Michelin went to Italy.

Italy is also a country of food, but we often say that Italian cuisine is delicious, not because it is complicated, and Italians love to say, "Moms are the best to make", which is the kind of family flavor. The simple and surging taste is called a good Italian cuisine.

Obviously, this unique Italian style does not ask Michelin's favorite, and those who get the star are restaurants for cooking meals.

As a result, the Italian himself had a new guide -the red shrimp evaluation guide.

On the contrary, the Japanese's obsessive -compulsive disorder appetite for Michelin, and 191 stars were sent in Tokyo.

After that, Michelin finally visited Greater China.

When Shanghai's first Michelin Guide was announced, nearly half of the 26 star restaurants, nearly half of the list were Cantonese cuisine, and Shanghai people expressed their anger.

However, when Michelin came to Guangzhou, Guangzhou people expressed aggressive. In Guangzhou, the birthplace of Cantonese cuisine, only 8 restaurants won a star, not even two stars.

No wonder Mr. Cai Lan said:

Outside of Europe, Michelin is not reliable.

The status quo facing Michelin, who stepped out of France, was: the criteria for judging the criteria, confusing the judgment process, and the final result were unpopular.


"Star" of the killing

In fact, since the birth of the Michelin Guide, it has been criticized for the incomplete evaluation procedures and the evaluation standards are not clear.

Since the launch of the Samsung hierarchical evaluation in 1931, the official guidelines have given only five rough explanations:

1. The standard of ingredients in the disk;

2. The integration of the skill level and taste of food;

3. Innovation level;

4. Whether it is worthwhile;

5. The stability of the culinary level of the restaurant;

As for the specific Star criteria of Michelin, no one knows.

And even more terrible, Michelin's judges were anonymous on the restaurant's rating. Michelin has a considerable number of tights in the world, and Joe dresses dresses, eating, drinking, traveling everywhere. Once a problem is found by the food density, there is a possibility of "falling the star".

The anonymous mechanism has made Michelin unprecedented, but at the same time, it also makes them a "hell judge" in the food industry.

Even every star has become a weapon that can "kill".

In the 2008 Oscar's best cartoon "Rat King", there was a chef named August Gusu. At the beginning of the movie, the ancient chef lost two stars -dead.

The prototype of the ancient chef is Bernard Loiseau.

Bernard, a prestigious chef in Europe. In 1991, his restaurant was finally awarded Samsung by Michelin, and the next day, customers increased by 65%.

However, in 2003, the "Michelin Guide" released the wind and intentionally removed a star. After learning the news, he gritted his teeth and told his colleagues:

If I lose a star, I would rather commit suicide.

That evening, he drank a cup of coffee at home, took off his beloved shotgun from the wall, wiped it carefully, and at the point of suicide at himself -committed suicide.

Michelin Xingxing "kills" the chef who died more than one.

In 1966, Michelin's Samsung chef ALAIN ZICK fell from Samsung to two -star because of its restaurant to become the first Samsung chef;

In 2007, the 41 -year -old Michelin -starred restaurant female chef died with a stable agent. She wrote in her testament: "I can't hold it down, the pressure is too great ..."

In 2017, French chef Benoit Violier shot and committed suicide in his apartment because he was afraid of being picked.

It is a curse. I hope I have a restaurant that has never been rated by Michelin.

Michelin's authority has caused the unbearable emphasis of practitioners in the catering industry.

There was a statistics that 13%of the Michelin -star restaurant chefs have the situation of taking drugs, and 27%of people have alcoholism.

Anti -Michelin wave appeared in the industry: Michelin, please roll out my kitchen.


Michelin is not equal to food

In 2017, Michelin engaged in a big oolong.

On the guide, a small street restaurant in France appeared on a star list.

This restaurant is an authentic street small restaurant. It focuses on popular food. The signboard is Burgundy red wine stewed beef, oyster potato strip, Hungarian spicy sauce cod with potatoes.

Whether it is a single set meal or an open stomach to a buffet, it only takes 12.5 euros -it is cheap for the locals.

A flat shop, because of the star, became popular overnight, countless people ran to taste.

However, a few days later, Michelin came out to clarify that it should be another restaurant. As for the reason for Michelin's mistakes ... You can understand the names of the two stores Le Boucheàoreille and Boucheàoreille.

However, according to the people's reports, the two tastes similar, and the small restaurant is still well received.

There are many similar situations. You may often hear friends around you and go to a Michelin Samsung restaurant abroad, but you think it is not as good as our roadside stall.

This taste about what delicious or delicious taste is a very subjective judgment. Michelin is just a judgment.

You have to understand that Michelin's standard is a set of standards that are gradually formed in the process of French cuisine more and more systematic and refined, developing the so -called "Fine Dining" of French cuisine.

The food they prefer is a very complex and fine process for the process of cooking.

They like to appreciate the composition of the ingredients, cooking, and techniques. There is a set of special procedures.

For example, Mrs. Shanghai Goose, see the introduction of others, know why they are starring.

Only 90 days of breeding, about 5 pounds of goose, "Napoleon" black -maaline goose, which is provided in a special "space furnace" in a special "space furnace" in a non -polluting environment.

Although Michelin's judges are not all foreigners, they will hire appropriate judges locally. However, every Michelin judge has been trained and needs to go to France for standardized training for three or four months.

Under the brainwashing of Michelin standards, the reviewers will use the standards of Michelin to impose on other cultural food. As a result, the soil and water will not be convinced.

As "New Yorker" writer Helen Rosner said:

Throughout the Samsung -level restaurant, it feels like it belongs to the same global chain store, like selling cheese cake factories with caviar.

In my opinion, Michelin just follows a certain standard and an evaluation of food. It is a cultural hegemony with the same set of standards.

Michelin does not mean food. It is a kind of affirmation, a honor, but not a competition, nor the only standard.

Therefore, it is just a reference without having to "chase the stars".

Food should be a food that can soothe people.

It can be a luxurious and exquisite Western food, a mothers' specialty, and even the street seller to catch cakes.

In the world of food, there is no need for camouflage food detectives, nor the "stars" of glory and burden.

Seeing what you like and want to eat, just eat it!